This story originally appeared in a German daily paper published in Berlin, die tageszeitung, on May 10 2025.
Deep-fried fish with chips, vinegar and salt is a favourite dish in Ireland. But it was the Italians who spread the dish there.
Almost all the tables are taken on this Saturday evening in Romano Morelli’s restaurant. The Italian restaurant on Dublin’s Capel Street is narrow but long. Hardly anything reminds you that Morelli’s family sold fish and chips here for over 40 years, when the store was still a chipper.
That’s the name of the snack bars that serve the Irish favourite, fish and chips. A dish that most people would probably not associate with Italy, although Italian immigration to Ireland in the 19th and 20th centuries had a significant influence on it.
Morelli’s grandfather was one of the last fish and chip vendors to come to Ireland with the first wave of immigration from Italy. He bought the store in 1948, which at the time was a snack bar with slot machines in the basement, says Romano Morelli. To this day, the chippers look almost identical: They are usually a bare room divided into two halves by display cabinets and deep fryers.
On one side, customers wait for the greasy goods, while the other side frantically prepares them. Italian is often spoken in these stores. Above their entrance doors hang the owners’ nameplates: Macari, Borza, Coffola, Fusco, De Vito, Cassoni, Caprani.
Almost all of these families or their ancestors come from Casalattico, a municipality in the central Italian province of Frosinone. More than 2,400 people whose families originally come from this village live in Ireland. Even today, the 800 or so inhabitants of Casalattico celebrate these ties every year and hold a festival on St. Patrick’s Day, the Irish national holiday, on March 17, with music, dancing, Irish flags and fish and chips (and, of course, vinegar and salt).
The connection between the community and Ireland is said to have started with Giuseppe Cervi in 1885, who accidentally left the ship he was on to the USA in Ireland. He hired himself out as a labourer in Dublin until he had earned enough money to buy a coal stove and a handcart with which he sold fish and chips outside the pubs. The business idea came from the north of England, where the meal was sold outside the factory gates.
Breen Reynolds, a former geography lecturer at Trinity College Dublin, doubts that this part of the story really happened in an interview on Irish television. However, it is confirmed that Cervi soon had enough money to rent a store. He ran it with his wife Palma, who is said to be the origin of the expression “one and one”, which is still used in Dublin today to order food. She always pointed to the menu and asked: “Uno di questo, uno di quello?”, meaning “one of this and one of that”.
The customer just had to nod.
Word of the Cervis’ success soon spread at home and many followed them to Ireland. By 1909, there were 20 fish and chip stores in Dublin run by Italians. However, the wave of immigration ended before the First World War.
On the night of Friday, September 20, three individuals were arrested in Dublin’s Temple Bar area for public order offences, according to An Garda Síochána. The arrests took place during a block party hosted by Tola Vintage, a popular clothing store, as part of the city’s Culture Night celebrations. The event was held outside the flagship store on Fownes Street, with Tola Vintage having two other locations in the city on College Green and Aungier Street.
The incident, captured on video and widely circulated on social media, has ignited public discourse around policing in Ireland, particularly in relation to the treatment of minority communities.
The footage shows a significant Garda presence at the party, and what started as a celebration quickly escalated into a violent altercation. In the video, multiple gardaí can be seen subduing one man, with witnesses heard shouting, “He’s bleeding.”
“Nell”, she called her autobiography, and that was how she was known.
Hold the Front Page – Nell has a story – Irish Times August 22 2024
Small, fierce and feisty. That mop of curls, the waft of cigarette smoke, the tongue in cheek smile and her distinctive walk, like a sailor ashore. Everyone soon knew her smoky Derry voice, laconic, challenging, always ready to break into laughter. You never knew what Nell was going to say next. It was often outrageous. She was a character, and she loved to play herself to the hilt. She was also one of the most important Irish journalists of the latter half of the twentieth century. She listened. She paid attention. She told the truth.
She was, wrote her friend, the historian Margaret Mac Curtain, “unequalled in the extraordinary breadth and fearless candour she has brought to bear on controversial subjects.” Her journalistic career started in The Irish Times in 1970, when the paper’s late Northern editor and editor, Fergus Pyle, commissioned her to write about the new bathroom in her family home in Beechwood Street in Derry’s Bogside.
Home was her touchstone. She vaunted her street-cred. She was part of a Bogside aristocracy that included Martin McGuinness, Eamonn McCann, Seamus Deane, Paddy Doherty, John Hume, Dana and Phil Coulter. Her mother was her biggest fan and harshest critic.
McCafferty was born in 1944. Her father, Hugh, was a clerk for the British admiralty by day and a bookie’s clerk at the dog track at night. Her mother, Lily, reared six children. Another daughter died at birth.
Her parents had to work hard to keep poverty at bay. She was fascinated and frightened by the poverty of the tenements where her father was raised. One of his brothers had died as a British soldier at the Somme. Her mother’s parents were Sergeant Duffy, a Catholic RUC man, and his wife Sarah, a Protestant who “turned”.
It is our pleasure to present the launch of Maurice Casey’s new book Hotel Lux: An Intimate History of Communism’s Forgotten Radicals, which follows Irish radical May O’Callaghan and her friends, three revolutionary families brought together by their vision for a communist future and their time spent in the Comintern’s Moscow living quarters, the Hotel Lux. This fascinating history history of international communism will be launched at 6pm on Thursday 22nd August. Join us to celebrate!
The photographer Chris Reid tells us everything we know about “tent city” in Dublin :
Some views of the ‘Tent City’ that was removed from Mount Street only to regenerate phoenixlike along the banks of the Grand Canal. Both Mount Street and Grand Canal are now fenced off to prevent a return of the tents. I’m wondering where in Dublin ‘Tent City’ will reappear and what other parts of Dublin will consequently become fenced off. The photos were taken on Sunday last, May 5 2024.
Rows of tents occupied by male asylum seekers and refugees on the banks of the Grand Canal, Dublin. The tents were removed on the morning of 9 May 2024.Rows of tents occupied by male asylum seekers and refugees on the banks of the Grand Canal, Dublin. The tents were dismantled and the occupants removed on the 9 May 2024.Rows of tents occupied by male asylum seekers and refugees on the banks of the Grand Canal, Dublin.
The comments on Chris Reid’s facebook page say it all :
Tents were set up at the East Link and Ringsend last night but removed after locals intervened Chris. The problem will just move around.
I didn’t hear about the East Link/Ringsend. I agree, it will move about.
Phoenix Park would be spacious enough! I hope our government will be kind to them
Sure if they’re house-less, they still have to live *somewhere*. Where are they expecting those kicked out to go?
“Patrick Somers, 84, wondered what would happen to people he used to consider neighbours. ‘I feel sorry for them. Wherever they’ve come from, they have to live somewhere’. Somers recalled the taunts he experienced as a labourer in London in the 1960s. ‘They’d say: ‘Go home, Paddy, go home.’ I remember that when I see these poor people’.”
in the 60’s pubs in UK had signs displayed saying ‘ no blacks, Irish or dogs allowed’ petered out in the 70’s but the feeling was there.
No country is dealing with the immigrant problem. No one has any policies, hate to think where it will end up for everyone
It’s very sad and not humanitarian. Sweeping one place up and transferring to another, as if they are not humans. They spoiled the Ukrainians and deal with those in a very inhumane way.
I like the old man who make more sense.
They have to sleep somewhere while they are here. Exactly. They cannot make themselves invisible during the night, only because it doesn’t fit an image. I think they should set up in front of the Dail. Or on the front lawns of the politicians and property tycoons. I am sure they have nice big and spacey ones
Phoenix park. Not annoying anyone out there. Bylaws will prevent it. Government has made a complete balls of this.
All those billions in budget surplus yet they can’t build social housing ?
This crisis was caused by racist terrorists, who burned several buildings prepared to accommodate asylum seekers and refugees (in some cases buildings which were not going to be used to house migrants were reduced to ashes).
The state ceased to house people, and the voluntary agency Tiglin tried to fill the gap, by supplying tents.
More about Tiglin :
Tiglin is a registered charity in the Republic of Ireland that helps people overcome addiction, homelessness and other life-controlling issues. We have assisted hundreds of people and their families in improving their lives. This is because we believe and invest in each person’s potential. We work with anyone in need of help. Therefore we get results that benefit the whole of society. Tiglin provides a variety of social care services, such as street outreach, crisis homeless services, residential rehabilitation programmes, aftercare supports, supported housing, educational opportunities, employment upskilling, and family support for men and women affected by drug and alcohol misuse and frontline services for those seeking international protection. Our therapeutic programmes take an evidence-based approach to supporting people with life-controlling issues. We also want to equip those in our care with personal and professional skills to help them in the life beyond our care. This means providing life skills and training opportunities ranging from courses in further education courses, qualifying employment certificates, counselling, parenting skills, and family therapy and barista training in our social enterprise café café.
In some cases the state asked Tiglin to take on this job. Then the state sent in diggers and other vehicles which threw the new tents into skips. Migrants moved on to different parts of the city – and arsonist racists threatened them. The state effectively gave the thugs a green light.
Far-right racists regularly target Paul Murphy TD (People Before Profit), Dublin South-West. These sinister activists picket the homes of elected politicians; a few days ago they targeted the home of Green Party Minister Roderic O’Gorman, who is gay and is responsible for the housing of immigrants.
Paul Murphy observes :
Good that some media is finally drawing the obvious link between the far-right and the disgusting intimidatory scenes outside Roderic O’Gorman’s house.
This isn’t a lack of civility in politics.
It’s an organised attempt to undermine democratic rights.
Picketing family homes is from the same playbook as burning 🔥 immigrants’ accommodation, city centre riots such as November 23 2023 in Dublin, and propaganda attacking the rights of specific national groups.
We offer one example: Ukrainians forced to live in Ireland, fleeing from Russia’s genocidal war.
Two men – Jospi Strok and David Druzinec – working in Ireland, attacked for what appears to be no reason at all – apparently they weren’t speaking English.
But note that the father of Josip Strok has heard nothing from the authorities about his son’s death:
Josip Strok RIP and David Druzinec
“I can’t believe that no one from the Dublin higher authorities or the Irish embassy ever called or said anything to me about my loss. It was just Irish ordinary people.”
David Druzinec speaking on “Prime Time” to Irish broadcaster RTÉ
As bad is the initial response of the gardai as reported.
On Easter Sunday, after he [Druzinec] was discharged from hospital, he spent most of the day travelling around with the gardaí trying to re-trace their route.
A question to Garda Boss Drew Harris : How is the Hug-a-Thug Policing Strategy Playing Out?
In 2023, in his weekly Sunday Independent columns, Gene Kerrigan wrote devastating examinations of Garda Boss Drew Harris’s strategy for dealing with escalating far-right activity in Ireland. November 23 2023 racist riots in Dublin’s city centre prompted this sarcastic Kerrigan twitter comment :
“The classic part of their playbook,” Drew Harris said of the far right, “is an over-response by the authorities. We are not going to fall into that trap.” How’s the hug-a-thug policing strategy playing out, Drew?
Racist riots erupted on Dublin’s streets on November 23 2023. The “hug-a-thug” philosophy of Drew Harris finds its way into this Irish Times report :
Many Garda officers do not accept the disturbances on the night were “far-right riots”, saying the event was more nuanced. They say the trouble was whipped up by a small far-right element before opportunists with no ideology seized the chance to go on a rampage, taking on gardaí and looting shops.
Conor Lally, Crime & Law How far right-sparked violence dominated the year in policing during 2023, Irish Times December 27 2023
The Irish Far-Right is on an arson roll – its activists are burning unoccupied buildings which are earmarked to house homeless refugees.
This article should encourage all Irish revolutionary socialist activists who are anti-racists to examine our connections with the Eastern part of the European continent.
Below Maurice’s article we publish the words of Imelda May’s stunning poem “You Don’t Get to be Racist and Irish”.
An Immigrant History of a Dublin Street – From O’Connell Bridge to the Gate Theatre, via Jamaica, Finland, Ukraine and France
My thoughts are with all those impacted by the attack that took place in Parnell Square, Dublin, on 23 November. You can find some fundraisers to help here.
Irish migration history is traditionally told as a history of emigration outwards. We rarely talk about the history of immigration inwards to Ireland.
Yet a migrant population has existed in Ireland throughout its modern history. And this community’s overlooked story reflects common European migrant experiences: adversity, cultural influence, assimilation, xenophobia, and so on.
In other words, it is the kind of history that defies notions of Irish exceptionalism.
To explain more, let me take you through the immigration history of a single patch of Dublin city centre. Together, we can traverse the same streets associated with the appalling images from last Thursday; from O’Connell Bridge up towards the Gate Theatre.
I’ll try and give those images of the far-right instigated riots, now burned into so many of our anxious minds, a few historical counterpoints.
Tomás Ó Flatharta 